Pool - Proper Drainage Procedures

1.) Make sure that both the pool valve and settling tank valves are open to the deep well.


2.) Make sure that the circuit through the filters is closed... so the handles should be pulled up...
also make sure that the drains to the lines are shut (i.e. spickets down by the chlorine room are closed).

3.) Begin to agitate the main drain in the pool (use the two longer sweepers to push in a rotating motion). This should be done continually as the water drains out to prohibit a large bunch of leaves from being sucked in to clog the drain.
* There are two approaches here...
-A = Move the grate... and try to suck all of the leaves through the drain, then through the deep well (mind if you have been able to get the skrim out), then through the pump, then through the valve and then down the hill. The problem here is that if a cloggage occurs... which chances are it will... then you are left with snaking the drain with P.E. tubing or whatever else you can.
-B = Leave the grate... let it catch all the leaves while draining all the water out... then removing all of the wet leaves from the pool via bucket or wheelbarrow. (this is what Jeremy Britton recommends)

4.) Open square nut valve in front of Katie's Place. (Usually have to dig out some of the mulch above it). Fully open it to ensure that the leaves can pass through and not get stuck in a pinched valve... remember this will make for a larger surge of water and thus more opportunity to flow outside of the drains but you do not want leaves stuck in the valve.

5.) As water is released take a shovel down to sweep leaves along the drain on the road from
K.T.'s place down to the bunker. There should not be water flowing across the road but rather down to the drain.




6.) Go below the bunker to ensure that the water is being directed on a path to the right where
the drainage has flowed before. If the water diverts itself.. which it will.. it will flow onto the
upper part of the 8th hole of the golf course and not down to the drainage ditch by the tee box.

7.) Go down to the 8th green tee box to ensure that water is not flowing out onto the golf
course... it probably will because of all of the leaves coming down initially with the water so
take a few shovels and clear out the drain.

7.) Continue to follow the path of drainage to ensure that water does not spill onto the course... there could be trees, leaves, and debri along the ditch so follow it until the main drain right off the road. Make sure that you take a shovel to keep the water flowing so as to not drain onto the highway.

Repair done 4/6/07

This repair was made in April of 07. It was a result of the waterline being loosened at the upper field as the lines were pulled apart somehow (possibly when the edges of the upper field eroded years previously). You can tell here where we dug up the road, we made some cuts with the concrete saw first to try to make it clean. On the other side of the main road where Nate's bucket was we dug as closely as we could to the road to find the leak and realized it went under the road somewhere so we came across to cap it and will run a line to the upper field from the Cabin 5 line.

This is a view of the cap put on. The repair was just past on the corner where the barn road met the main entry road on the cabin side... where there should be a patch you can see. Essentially we simply cut the line a short distance past where the T going across the road was and capped it. This seemed to work because when we turned the line on the leakage didn't continue so must have been underneath the main entry road.
Across the road there is the top of a 4x4 post to the left of that bucket. That is where the stub from the T comes out underneath the road... hence the T should be just less than a yard from where this cap is. We left the existing line going under the road but there must be a leak in it somewhere. We placed a block behind the cap and poured 2 bags of sacrete before burrying it, it wasn't any more than 2 feet deep.